Granny’s Christmas Stocking

Welcome to a project that perfectly blends classic crochet charm with festive spirit! This Granny’s Christmas Stocking pattern puts a delightful twist on a traditional granny square, transforming it into a beautiful hexagon that magically becomes a holiday heirloom.

Designed by Ashley Maglich (Your Craft Gremlin), this pattern is perfect for crocheters who love the timeless look of granny clusters but are ready for a fun, engaging project. Whether you’re making a special stocking for a loved one or creating a matching set for your entire family, this pattern is wonderfully customizable. Choose classic Christmas colours, a modern monochrome palette, or a whimsical mix of leftovers from your yarn stash—each version will be uniquely beautiful.

Grab your hook and your favourite yarn, and let’s create a Christmas treasure that Santa will be thrilled to fill!

📝 ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

MC – Magic Circle
Ch – Chain
sc – Single Crochet
1/2DC – Half Double Crochet
1/2 DC TOG – Half Double Crochet Together
DC – Double Crochet
FO – Fasten Off
Slst – Slip Stitch

🧵 MATERIALS

Yarn
3mm Crochet Hook (or size to gauge)
Scissors
Darning Needle

🔄 ROUND 1 – THE GRANNY HEXAGON

MC
Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC)
2 DC, Ch 2
(3 DC Cluster, Ch 2) Repeat 5 times
Slst to top of Ch 3, FO

🔄 ROUND 2

Start in any Ch 2 space
Ch 3 (counts as 1st DC), 2 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC
(3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC) around
Slst to top of Ch 3, FO

🔄 ROUNDS 3–12

Continue the granny cluster pattern for 10 rounds
(3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC) in corner spaces
3 DC in non-corner spaces

*You should have 12 “GrannyRounds, counting round 1)

🔄 ROUND 13

Flatten the hexagon to form 3 straight sides

You are now going to make 3DC clusters around these sides, starting from the bottom & working your way up, over & down. *make sure you still make your corner spaces(3DC, ch2, 3DC)

🔄 ROUNDS 14–21 – STOCKING LEG

Work 8 rows of granny clusters on top of the hexagon
Alternate rows to maintain even edges

Row 14 – (Ch 3, DC) in first space, 3 DC clusters across, 2 DC in last space, Ch 1, FO

Row 15 – Ch 3 between 2 DC from previous row, clusters across, 1 DC between last 2 DC, Ch 1, FO
Repeat Rows 14–15 for the desired length

These are the rows you will alternate, until you reach your 8 rows or your desired length.

*It’s important to note: try & have somewhat of a loose tension, if that’s hard for you to do then I would recommend you size up a hook size for this part.

Once you reach your 8 rows or desired length, you are now going to stitch your stocking closed. Fold the hexagon in an “L” shape, where the “right” sides are together.

*What I mean by this is the sides where your “ends” are not hanging out, you can usually tell which side is the “right” & “wrong” sides.

Note: I like how the stocking looks both ways, with the sc stitching inside & outside, it’s just a personal preference. If you want to see what the sc stitching looks like, scroll down in the pattern. You can certainly keep your stockings where the right sides are showing & do your sc where they show vs having them on the inside of the stocking & having to flip them inside out. After all, this pattern is simply a guide; let your imagination and creativity take you where it may!

At this point, if you have any loose ends, this is where you are going to want to sew them in.

Insert your hook into the first stitch at the top of the stocking, *through both sides of the stocking* pull your yarn through, ch1 & sc back into that same stitch.

Note: Just do your best to judge where to put the stitches for the first 8 rows because you are going to be making stitches into the sides of the DC stitches that you made, so there isn’t technically a stitch to go into until after the 8 rows.

You are going to make an SC in every stitch around, starting from the top of the stocking down to where the heel starts.

In the last stitch down, you are going to make 4 sc in that same stitch; this is to give the heel some curve.

You will now continue to make a sc in each stitch down, on the last sc, ch1&FO

*The picture below is how it would look if you did your sc stitches on the right side of the stocking, as I mentioned earlier. Whatever way you prefer, I like them both.

Once that is done, I personally like to sew in all my loose ends at this point, because the next step is to turn your work inside out! (if that’s the route you decided to go)

*The picture below is the stocking turned seam side in so you can see the difference.

*This is what it looks like with the sc stitches flipped inside the stocking*

🌟 TOP BORDER

In between the granular clusters, you are going to make:

(1/2 DC, 2DC, 1/2 DC) all in that same space, then you will sc in the middle stitch of the next 3DC cluster.

I like to flip my stocking with the “L” shape facing the opposite way, with the “toe” pointing to the left. Repeat around
Insert your hook into the middle stitch of the first 3DC, ch1 & sc back into that same stitch.

In the space between the 3D Clusters you will make (1/2DC, 2DC, 1/2DC) in the same space, then sc in the middle of the 3DC

Repeat this all the way around

You will have to make a “cluster” in the “back” of the stocking. Check the next photo for reference. *You are going to make your last (1/2DC, 2DC,1/2DC) cluster in the same stitch as the first sc where you stitched your stocking together.slst into the first sc, ch1 & FO

👣 THE TOE

You will be attaching your yarn in the middle DC of the 3DC cluster of the toe, as shown in the photo below.

Round 1 Ch1, sc in that same stitch, sc in the next stitch. Skip the next stitch & repeat all the way around. (sc next 2 stitches, skip the next)

When you have 24 stitches, you will now be at the bottom of the stocking. You will place a sc on each side of the sc where you stitched the stocking together. *pictured below* slst in the first sc & ch1 (you should have 26 stitches)

Round 2 1/2DC in that same stitch, 1/2DC next 2 stitches, (2) 1/2DC in the next. Repeat that all the way around until you have 2 stitches left. (1/2DC next 3, (2) 1/2DC next)

Make a 1 (1/2DC) in each of the last 2 stitches. (32 stitches) slst into first 1/2DC, ch1

Round 3 1/2DC in the next 2 stitches, 1/2DC 2 together. Repeat all the way around. (24 stitches) slst in the first 1/2DC, ch1

Round 4 1/2DC, 1/2DC 2 together. Repeat all the way around (16 stitches) slst in the first 1/2DC, ch1

Round 5 1/2DC 2 together all the way around. (8 stitches) slst into first stitch, ch1

*Now, at this point, I cut my yarn & sew up the end of the toe. If you feel more comfortable slip stitching instead, you can definitely do that.

Leave a long tail & cut your yarn. You will now use your darning needle to weave in & out of the 8 stitches &cinch the centre closed. Make sure you weave your ends in well so the toe of your stocking doesn’t come undone.

I will show you how I make the tag to hang the stocking. If you don’t want to crochet the hanger, you can certainly use ribbon or fabric if you would like.

Tag: Make a slip knot on your hook & chain 16 1/2DC in the second ch from the hook. 1/2DC in each stitch all the way down. Ch1 & FO Make sure you leave a decently long tail, because you will need that to sew it onto the stocking

Now you’re going to fold the “strip” you have where the ends meet each other, to form your tag. I like to thread my yarn through so that the ends stay put.

Now you just place this tag in the stocking where you’d like. I like to flatten the side of my stocking where you sewn it together so you can have a nice area to work with. Place your tag & just sew it in place.